Sunday 6th December:
Well there's remote, and then there's really remote, and today we've done really remote. I thought Western Mongolia was pretty remote, but with only six hours drive to an airport, albeit over rough terrain, it's nowhere as remote as St. Helena. Everest Base Camp is pretty remote, nine or ten days walk in or out, but if an emergency arises, you might get helicoptered out. St. Helena is too far away from anywhere to make use of helicopters. This will all change next year when the new airport is completed, just how will that change the lives of the Saints, will St. Helena become a tourist destination other than for a day via a cruise ship? The Harbourmaster, Steve, who we chatted to for half an hour as we queued to board a tender, married to a Saint, and now a resident of four years was brought up in Kingsbury, and has supported Spurs all his life, such a small world.
Out taxi driver, Brian Coleman would you believe, had visited the UK this year, Greenford, Middlesex, and explained that to get anywhere from St. Helena you have to take the RMS St. Helena, their supply ship, and take four days to Ascension Island, or similar to Cape Town, and it's not cheap either, £400 for such a trip. From Ascension you can get an RAF flight back to the UK, and that's another £500. This probably explains why one of the guides we spoke to in Longwood House, aged 78, had never left the 47 square miles of the island. St. Helena does has a dark underbelly however, and a British QC is currently down here investigating reports of endemic child abuse.
Four thousand people live on the island, and today it was beautiful, the sun shining, the flowers in full bloom, and all hands to the pump for one of the dozen or so cruise ships that visit the island each year. If you're one of four thousand, and one ship comes and deposits 1250 people onto your island, then you pull all the stops out to make a few bob, but I have to say without ripping anyone off. Without a trip planned, and expecting all vehicles to have been commandeered, we picked up a taxi easily and embarked on the tour of the island. The Briars, where Napoleon spent his first few weeks on the island, his tomb, Longwood House where he spent his final six years, and finally Plantation House, the residence of the current Governor of the island were the points of interest.
We stop at the top of Jacob's Ladder as we return to Jamestown, and I take the easier descent, all 699 steps; would have liked to try the ascent but it would have taken too much time, and I'd have been a sweaty wreck, not a good look. A photograph with Napoleon outside the Consulate Hotel and it's back to the ship, only to find we have to stand in line for 30-40 minutes in the hot sun. Evening dinner is in the Polo Grill, and I have to say the food was less than average, a dry steak, my second underwhelming steak in two days, what's going on here? More underwhelming still was the singing of the young lady in Horizons for the late night Rock 'n Roll session, although some of those dancing made up for it with vigour, if not quality with their Grandad dancing!